giovanni19
Im getting a bmx bike and yea... i dont know what to get. What would be a good bike for me? I want one thats not heavy cuz i dont like heavy bikes but i want it to be strong. I want to do stuff like jump curbs.. and ramps and maybe dirt jumps.. and also just riding around doing wheely's and stuff. I dont know but if i get serious i dont want to have to go buy another bike right after so yea can you tell me? PLEASE DONT TELL ME ABOUT ALL THESE FRAMES AND FORKS OR WHATEVER CUZ I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS SO YEA!!! Just tell me a brand and maybe the model. ok thanks
Answer
I work at a shop, and we sell some BMX bikes. You are going to want to buy a bike that is sold at a shop, regardless of the manufacturer. BMX bikes are pretty simple mechanically, but they need to be put togather by a shop mechanic, otherwise performance/durability and safety could be compromised. So, don't buy one online unless you plan on having a shop assemble it (Some bike companies void the warranty if the bicycle isn't assembled by a shop.) - Plus, most shops, including the one I work at, will do things like give a free tuneup or ajdustments for a period of time if you buy the bike from them (our shop also does free flat fixes for 3 years).
Department store bikes are a HUGE no no. It would be easyer just to throw your money in the trash can and save the trip to big box mart.
That being said, if you are looking for your first BMX bike and don't want to replace it too soon down the road, a better than base model should be good. We carry Haro (mostly entry level), and some Eastern and various brands. I know you don't want to hear details, but I am going to list them. You want a bike that has:
-At least a full or mostly cro-moly frame (for lightness and strength)
-One that has the oversized 14mm axels in both the front and rear.
-If you are a big kid, you want one with a stronger rim, possibly double walled
-Something that doesn't have the american bottom bracket (the part where the crankarms attach and rotate around). The American bb is very heavy, something you are not looking for. Spanish and other types of bb's are all fine really (although you will hear many people saying that one is better than the other)
-As an option, you can get a wheel w/48 spokes, instead of the weaker 36 hole spoked wheels that come on some bikes. The only disadvantage is that the 48 spoked wheels are heavier.
-something that has the sealed bearing hubs for durability. (If you check to make sure that your hubs are tight, you don't have to have this, as bikes that have these hubs cost some $$$)
-Something with the micro-drive style drivetrain (using a smaller front and rear sprocket to cut down the profile, while getting more or less the same gearing. Also lighter. Uses cassette style rear hub.)
-If you aren't grinding and aren't using pegs to stand or do tricks on and such, then don't get a bike with them, or have the shop take them off. Just more weight and stuff to mess with.
-Something with cro-moly bars (to save weight and to be stronger)
If you are reading all of this and thinking WTF is he talking about, Don't dispair-
A good saleman will know all about these things or will be willing to find them out if he/she values you as a customer. If you plan on getting a bike to do some jumping with and want it to last a long time, then it is essential that you get a bike with these specs, or something close. Otherwise, you could have some mechanical problems.
There is one more thing. Sizing. The bikes will vary a little bit in sizing (on BMX bikes, it is the length of the top bar). Top bars for adults can vary roughly from 18-19 inches in lenght to 21-21.5 inches in length, although most are 20-21". The only way to know what is right for you is to ride them and see what you think. No biggie though, the salesman should be able to help you with that also.
Some popular bikes that we sell are the Haro F4, and X3 models. Cheap, and durable. Fits most, if not all the requirements I have listed though. But, you don't have to go with Haro. Eastern or any of the other companies are fine too.
Good luck with finding your bike. It sounds harder than it really is.
I work at a shop, and we sell some BMX bikes. You are going to want to buy a bike that is sold at a shop, regardless of the manufacturer. BMX bikes are pretty simple mechanically, but they need to be put togather by a shop mechanic, otherwise performance/durability and safety could be compromised. So, don't buy one online unless you plan on having a shop assemble it (Some bike companies void the warranty if the bicycle isn't assembled by a shop.) - Plus, most shops, including the one I work at, will do things like give a free tuneup or ajdustments for a period of time if you buy the bike from them (our shop also does free flat fixes for 3 years).
Department store bikes are a HUGE no no. It would be easyer just to throw your money in the trash can and save the trip to big box mart.
That being said, if you are looking for your first BMX bike and don't want to replace it too soon down the road, a better than base model should be good. We carry Haro (mostly entry level), and some Eastern and various brands. I know you don't want to hear details, but I am going to list them. You want a bike that has:
-At least a full or mostly cro-moly frame (for lightness and strength)
-One that has the oversized 14mm axels in both the front and rear.
-If you are a big kid, you want one with a stronger rim, possibly double walled
-Something that doesn't have the american bottom bracket (the part where the crankarms attach and rotate around). The American bb is very heavy, something you are not looking for. Spanish and other types of bb's are all fine really (although you will hear many people saying that one is better than the other)
-As an option, you can get a wheel w/48 spokes, instead of the weaker 36 hole spoked wheels that come on some bikes. The only disadvantage is that the 48 spoked wheels are heavier.
-something that has the sealed bearing hubs for durability. (If you check to make sure that your hubs are tight, you don't have to have this, as bikes that have these hubs cost some $$$)
-Something with the micro-drive style drivetrain (using a smaller front and rear sprocket to cut down the profile, while getting more or less the same gearing. Also lighter. Uses cassette style rear hub.)
-If you aren't grinding and aren't using pegs to stand or do tricks on and such, then don't get a bike with them, or have the shop take them off. Just more weight and stuff to mess with.
-Something with cro-moly bars (to save weight and to be stronger)
If you are reading all of this and thinking WTF is he talking about, Don't dispair-
A good saleman will know all about these things or will be willing to find them out if he/she values you as a customer. If you plan on getting a bike to do some jumping with and want it to last a long time, then it is essential that you get a bike with these specs, or something close. Otherwise, you could have some mechanical problems.
There is one more thing. Sizing. The bikes will vary a little bit in sizing (on BMX bikes, it is the length of the top bar). Top bars for adults can vary roughly from 18-19 inches in lenght to 21-21.5 inches in length, although most are 20-21". The only way to know what is right for you is to ride them and see what you think. No biggie though, the salesman should be able to help you with that also.
Some popular bikes that we sell are the Haro F4, and X3 models. Cheap, and durable. Fits most, if not all the requirements I have listed though. But, you don't have to go with Haro. Eastern or any of the other companies are fine too.
Good luck with finding your bike. It sounds harder than it really is.
I want a safe car for the winter time, what would you prefer?
Thistimear
Including 4 wheel drive and not being a truck or anything huge that wastes a ton of gas, or something super expensive- 18k price range.
Answer
There are no "safe cars" for any season of the year around the planet. Cars are not safe. They are motion, self propelled devices powered by internal, some say "infernal" combustion engines, albeit many new ones have electric motors, Yeah! Four wheel drive vehicles do not work if there is no friction. In fact, 98% of cars on the road ARE NOT four wheel drive and are driven year round rather successfully. The DRIVER , the knowledge, the training, the ability to think and judge the conditions is what is important and evolves to a safe driver. Plenty of 4X4 crash in winter as this has NOTHING to do with handling, braking or ability of the driver to use good judgment. Years ago when ABS came out insurance companies gave a discount as they though cars with ABS would crash less often. THEY WERE WRONG. When cars came out with Stability Control Programming, no discounts. Do these cars crash less? No they do not. As it happens, most people DO NOT EVEN KNOW HOW THESE WORK and crash anyway. Why? Because people take RISKS. In Kentucky alone in 2012 over 53,000 crashes were attributed to distracted driving which means texting/cell phone. Three days ago in my area an 18 year old female died when while texting lost control of her car and crashed. About the same time a mother of four kids, barely 26 years old, drove in front of a large, YELLOW, school bus as if this BUS did not exit. She dies. Cause? Texting. If you wish to buy a car, buy a car you want. However, get driving lessons. Most people DO NOT KNOW ENOUGH as to cars. Going to a driving school should be MANDATORY. If you wish to see what I mean go to "wreckedexotics.com" to see people with money to buy expensive cars but with no brains to buy driving lessons that have crashed their cars. Some die. The subject of tires, energy, handling, kinetic energy, stopping distances, etc. IS NEVER DISCUSSED. And so, you, in your state of being an average uneducated and untrained driver, have the opinion that there are safe winter cars? And you shall buy one but you shall crash THINKING that you can speed and mishandle the car because you have four wheel drive. Last year or two an author rode a model T Ford for one year. In that year there were over 8 million crashes, 40,000 people died 5,000 of them teens. With millions of injuries over 250,000 ended up with handicap level injuries. This guy? Not even a parking ticket. No heat, no radio, very small almost bicycle size tires. And yet, not a scratch on the car. Why? He knew how to drive and when to drive and where to drive. No chances. My 2001 Audi is front wheel drive. Five speed manual. I drive year round. If there is snow, seldom in my area, over two inches, I wait for the roads to be cleared. The car does not have a scratch on it. Why? I have taken driving lessons, I never speed and I seldom take chances on the road. People have tried to crash into me. They speed, do not stop at stop signs, tailgate, etc. But I know what do to. How about you? Care to evolve into a safe driver? Get lessons. The car is not that important. YOU ARE.
There are no "safe cars" for any season of the year around the planet. Cars are not safe. They are motion, self propelled devices powered by internal, some say "infernal" combustion engines, albeit many new ones have electric motors, Yeah! Four wheel drive vehicles do not work if there is no friction. In fact, 98% of cars on the road ARE NOT four wheel drive and are driven year round rather successfully. The DRIVER , the knowledge, the training, the ability to think and judge the conditions is what is important and evolves to a safe driver. Plenty of 4X4 crash in winter as this has NOTHING to do with handling, braking or ability of the driver to use good judgment. Years ago when ABS came out insurance companies gave a discount as they though cars with ABS would crash less often. THEY WERE WRONG. When cars came out with Stability Control Programming, no discounts. Do these cars crash less? No they do not. As it happens, most people DO NOT EVEN KNOW HOW THESE WORK and crash anyway. Why? Because people take RISKS. In Kentucky alone in 2012 over 53,000 crashes were attributed to distracted driving which means texting/cell phone. Three days ago in my area an 18 year old female died when while texting lost control of her car and crashed. About the same time a mother of four kids, barely 26 years old, drove in front of a large, YELLOW, school bus as if this BUS did not exit. She dies. Cause? Texting. If you wish to buy a car, buy a car you want. However, get driving lessons. Most people DO NOT KNOW ENOUGH as to cars. Going to a driving school should be MANDATORY. If you wish to see what I mean go to "wreckedexotics.com" to see people with money to buy expensive cars but with no brains to buy driving lessons that have crashed their cars. Some die. The subject of tires, energy, handling, kinetic energy, stopping distances, etc. IS NEVER DISCUSSED. And so, you, in your state of being an average uneducated and untrained driver, have the opinion that there are safe winter cars? And you shall buy one but you shall crash THINKING that you can speed and mishandle the car because you have four wheel drive. Last year or two an author rode a model T Ford for one year. In that year there were over 8 million crashes, 40,000 people died 5,000 of them teens. With millions of injuries over 250,000 ended up with handicap level injuries. This guy? Not even a parking ticket. No heat, no radio, very small almost bicycle size tires. And yet, not a scratch on the car. Why? He knew how to drive and when to drive and where to drive. No chances. My 2001 Audi is front wheel drive. Five speed manual. I drive year round. If there is snow, seldom in my area, over two inches, I wait for the roads to be cleared. The car does not have a scratch on it. Why? I have taken driving lessons, I never speed and I seldom take chances on the road. People have tried to crash into me. They speed, do not stop at stop signs, tailgate, etc. But I know what do to. How about you? Care to evolve into a safe driver? Get lessons. The car is not that important. YOU ARE.
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Title Post: Whats a good bmx bike (OPEN READ DETAILS PLEASE)?
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Rating: 94% based on 932 ratings. 4,1 user reviews.
Author: Unknown
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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