What are all the parts that I need to assemble a bmx bike?

kids bike brake set image

Jake

My diamondback is real messed up. I bought a DK frame off some kid and now I wanna assemble a decent bike. I just need to know the basic parts I will need. Please help.

Answer
Things You'll Need:
BMX Bike Brakes
BMX Bike Forks
BMX Bike Frame
BMX Bike Gloves
BMX Bike Parts
BMX Bike Pegs
Bike Pumps
Bike Tools
BMX Bike Helmets
BMX Bikes
Step
1
Start with a good flatland-specific frame. These usually have a short top tube, a short rear end and steep angles.

Step
2
Do a quick check of the frame and everything else on the bike to be sure nothing is cracked, bent or broken.

Step
3
Remove any pads, reflectors, chain guards or kickstands.

Step
4
Put axle pegs on the front and rear wheels and cable detanglers on the front and rear brake cables.

Step
5
Position your handlebars so they are straight up and down or in line with the fork. You may be more comfortable with your bars a little further forward or back, but don't go too far in either direction. Some riders like to cut their handlebars' width to just wider than shoulder-width.

Step
6
Remove old grips if they're torn or if the handlebar is showing through. Bar end caps will help protect the ends of the handlebar.

Step
7
Choose a wheel set that has a rear hub specifically designed for flatland, usually called a free coaster. Free coaster hubs allow you to set your pedals at one position, and they will stay there when rolling backward. Hubs with a regular free wheel make the pedals go backward when rolling backward, and coaster brake hubs don't let you set the pedals easily because of the brake in the hub.

Step
8
Use tires that have a smooth tread and inflate them to the maximum air pressure. Most flatlanders run at least 100 pounds of pressure in their tires, even though it is usually well above the recommended pressure on the tires. There are only a few tires rated to that pressure.

Step
9
Tighten all nuts and bolts to their specifications, including axle nuts, stem bolts, pedals, cranks, seat and seat post nuts, brakes, and headset.

Step
10
Lubricate all moving parts, such as brake cables, brake pivot bolts and your chain.

Step
11
Put the correct amount of tension on the chain so that it doesn't fall off when you're riding.

Step
12
Use the smallest front sprocket that you can find. The easier gearing makes it easier to ride away from tricks and the small sprocket will not get in the way.

Step
13
Choose platform pedals over caged pedals.

Step
14
Find the shortest crank arms you can.

Step
15
Adjust your seat to a height and angle that allows good mobility in front and in back.

Step
16
File down any sharp edges on the bike, such as the edges of the stem or handlebars.

How do I know what the best bike for me is?

southernbe

I am looking to get a bike to give me a cardio alternative to walking or running. I haven't ridden a bike since I was a kid, so I am trying to figure out what kind of bike to get -- mountain bike, road bike etc. How do I make sure that I get the right bike for me --- kind and size?

Answer
Start by reading "Bicycles: How to Choose"
http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bicycle.html

It's all based on "where & how" you will be riding. Road bikes will be your fastest choice but for the streets & smooth roads ONLY. Mountain bikes or all-terrain bikes basically suck on the streets because of the knobby off road tires & suspension parts zapping your energy. Knobby tires slow you down. And with every turn of the pedals, part of your energy is absorbed or soaked up by suspension parts. All-terrain bikes are OK on the streets ONLY if they have a smoother "street friendly" tread design & "lock-out" front forks. This (in essence) turns the suspension fork into a rigid fork with the simple twist of a switch.

Hybrids are a good "all around" type bike. They are great at nothing - but still good at many things. They can be ridden on the streets or light (man-made) groomed off-road trails of finely crushed stone.

"How do I make sure that I get the right bike for me --- kind and size?" Nine very, very simple words... See your authorized, independent, knowledgeable, friendly, local BICYCLE shop! Not K-Mart, Wally World or Target. At a REAL bicycle shop you can TRY B4 you BUY! You can test ride as many bikes as your little heart desires before the sale!

Other advantages are...
1) Professional sales - not some minimum wage "associate".
2) Professional assembly of the bike by a certified mechanic - again, not some minimum wage associate.
3) FREE service after the sale. ALL new bikes require a tune-up as shift & brake cables stretch a bit during the break-in process. Some shops do this only once. Some for a year. A bike shop near me does this for LIFE!
http://bigshark.com/about/policies-and-shipping-pg11.htm
4) Vastly better quality. Wally World lists bicycles on their website in the TOY Dept.! Does that give you a clue? A quality bike from a REAL bicycle shop - taken care of properly - can last a lifetime. Those from discount stores are "disposable bikes", meant to be ridden a year or so - then into a dumpster.

See link below. This is my "pride & joy" - a 2011 Raleigh Sojourn touring road bike. Time spent in the shop for repairs? ZERO. Money spent after the sale? A bottle of chain oil (about $8.00) and a set of new tires when the original ones wore out. And I replaced them with the SAME tires. Flat tires to date? ZERO - none - nada. Sure - you'll need to do routine maintenance & cleaning on any type of bike. But getting a quality bike from the start cost LESS in the long run.

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